Herbal Skincare vs. Tallow: why plants win every time
Tallow is one of those ingredients that's been used for centuries, then was replaced with alternative solutions, got forgotten, and now rediscovered. Influencers and novice skincare formulators in search of new vibes have turned it into the latest trend wave. But is it truly that special, or is it just another marketing trick?
I learned about tallow from my grandmother. She cooked with it, made salves, and even used it on my mum when she was a baby. When my daughter was born and being more progressive, I refused to use tallow for her and used extra virgin olive oil instead. Yes, my daughter smelled like a fresh salad, but her skin was perfectly moisturised, and who doesn't love salads anyway!
Years later, as a formulator with much more experience and knowledge, led by my desire to return to traditional ingredients, I've dedicated my work to reminding people about the incredible healing properties of herbs and plants. And for me personally, the recent tallow balm trend raises important questions about when ‘traditional’ doesn't necessarily mean better, or align with ethical skincare values.
Beyond the obvious issue for those of us committed to vegan, cruelty-free beauty, there's a crucial problem with tallow - there's a complete lack of regulations! There are no universal purity standards, no consistent quality checks, and very little transparency - meaning what you're putting on your skin can vary widely from one product to another. Tallow isn't FDA-approved for cosmetic use in US, largely due to risks like bovine spongiform encephalopathy (mad cow disease).
This inconsistency goes against everything I believe about responsible skincare formulation.
Beyond the ethics: the science doesn't add up
A quick Internet search shows mixed reviews about tallow balms - some influencers claim it's the ultimate skin saviour, while others avoid it because of its heavy feel or distinctive smell. But what does the science actually say?
Here's the thing - much of the tallow's reputation is based on social media testimonials. The scientific studies are still limited, and there is no solid scientific evidence for any of the bold claims.
In an article by the NY Post, board-certified dermatologist Dr.Muneeb Shah stated: "There are so many great skincare products out there now that are affordable and widely available that it just wouldn't make sense to me to take a chance on an ingredient that we don't know works or not".
The most comprehensive peer-reviewed study on topical tallow use is a 2024 scoping review titled: "Tallow, Rendered Animal Fat, and Its Biocompatibility With Skin". It analysed 19 studies and concluded the following:
- The Study reports that while tallow has hydrating properties, plant-based oils rich in linoleic acid often performed better in comparative studies.
- Tallow showed some promise in conditions like dermatitis, psoriasis, and dry skin, but the evidence base is small and inconclusive.
- Some positive results may have been influenced by other ingredients (like lanolin or urea) in the formulation.
- The lack of ingredient transparency in commercial tallow-based products makes it hard to evaluate risks and benefits.
- Reports on side effects are inconsistent: some showed no irritation, while others noted skin and eye sensitivity.
- The review also noted environmental concerns: tallow isn't reef-safe and may harm marine ecosystems if washed into waterways.
The Herbal Fusion approach
The tallow trend reminds me why I'm so passionate about botanical skincare formulations. Plants offer us incredible diversity in fatty acid profiles, therapeutic compounds, and skin-compatible nutrients that animal-derived ingredients simply can't match, all while being sustainably sourced and ethically produced.
So, instead of following every skincare trend, I encourage you to question, research, and think about what your skin truly needs.
Main source: PubMed: Tallow, Rendered Animal Fat, and Its Biocompatibility With Skin. A scoping review.